Fine jewelry collections are re-writing the genre #3: Bvlgari, Pomellato and Cartier, beauties in nature and the world

Marianne Riou

After Dior, Vuitton, Fendi, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels, it is the turn of Bvlgari, Pomellato and Cartier to present their talent. The most classical themes in fine jewelry, such as the wonders of nature, gardens and the world, are revisited here in designs which conjure up spectacular results. The very nature of the stones makes it possible to amplify the interplay of color and light, and to interpret the demiurgic virtuosity and diversity of Nature’s creations.

Bvlgari, “Eden, The Garden of Wonders”, craftsmanship showcases extravagance

For Bvlgari, extravagance and audacity can never be outdone! This time, the Garden of Eden has inspired the Roman jeweler to create an opulent collection of 140 unique pieces.

30 original designs pay tribute to emeralds, including the Emerald Glory bib necklace, which combines eleven pear-shaped Colombian emeralds weighing a total of 42.02 carats with 73 brilliant-cut pear-shaped diamonds (110.39 carats) to create a spectacular piece, rather like a glittering lace collar. It can be converted and worn as a tiara.

In seeking to astound us, Bvlgari has achieved a truly impressive result. A snake – the emblem of the Garden of Eden and a favorite of Bvlgari – is hypnotizing and enchanting in the Serpenti Ocean Treasure necklace. The Maison has reworked and adapted a new version of Serpenti for this collection; its intertwined body is entirely set with 20 carats of diamonds, while its mouth holds a rare drop-cut Ceylon sapphire with a deep, vivid ‘cornflower blue’ hue, weighing 61.30 carats.

We cannot fail to mention the Tribute to Paris necklace, with its stunning Eiffel Tower motif, celebrating the city of light. Its cabochon emerald is magnified by 461 buff-top cut emeralds (26.63 carats), 317 diamonds (14.11 carats), pavé diamonds (14.76 carats) and 50 pear-cut diamonds.

Then, given recent events, let us dwell a while on the Jubilee Tiara designed as a tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who, in 2022 became the only British monarch to have celebrated a platinum jubilee, marking 70 years of reign for a queen who died an icon on 8 September this same year. An exceptional tiara, in platinum of course, which can be converted into a necklace and featuring a bouquet of plants, set with diamonds and emeralds. The central emerald is carved in the purest Mughal tradition, which in turn is inspired by Persian art and its floral motifs.

At the end of September, the House of Bvlgari released a documentary, Inside the Dream, which can be viewed on Prime Video and Canal+, and which takes you on a behind-the-scenes tour of its creative workshops and the design of its fine jewelry collections. You will discover the ‘Holy of Holies’ and secrets that are usually very well kept…

Pomellato, changing reflections in ‘A walk in nature from sunrise to darkness,’ La Gioia, Chapter 3

The Italian Maison of Pomellato invites us to celebrate the joy of a day, from the first light of dawn to sunset, in the third chapter of ‘La Gioia,’ its very first fine jewelry collection, launched in 2020.

33 pieces of jewelry inspired by a walk in nature with the changing light of the day, where Pomellato’s style is instantly recognizable.

Diamonds are sprinkled here and there, in a crescendo or exclamation, like on the Flower Power ring; their inimitable sparkle echoes with delicate subtlety through the blue-gray stormy gradients of spinels and sapphires.

The iconic curb chain has been given a modern makeover and adorned with 1,400 black and white diamonds, a two-color blend that plays with light on a powerful creative piece.

The Rivière necklace, Secrets of the Rising Sun, is impressive with its five baroque and irregular translucent blue aquamarines, with more than 150 carats, encircled by a ribbon of white diamonds. These new cabochon cuts are reminiscent of charmingly irregular pebbles shaped by water.

As for the new Flex cuff bracelet, it is paved with 2,054 contrasting black and white diamonds, totaling 31 carats, which alternate with rose gold features. The piece is stunning, just like this collection with a bold baroque design.

Cartier explores the ‘Beautés du monde’ (Beauties of the world) and the diversity of beauty

In its inimitable way, Cartier has also taken inspiration from nature. It transposes and interprets the beauty and diversity of the world, using a language so dear to Cartier, in a strong, symbolic, abstract or figurative way, through the 97 pieces that make up the Beautés du monde collection.

Thus, the Aporia necklace, named after a butterfly, depicts the insect’s wing in an abstract, geometric pattern, as if you are observing it at close range. The naturalist motif is reproduced and repeated over and over again in a dialogue with strong modernist overtones, where the red pink of the rubellite and the onyx black respond to the peerless white diamonds with graphic touches.

This idea of a closely observed butterfly wing is again explored in the Apatura necklace using shimmering colors. White diamonds, orange sapphires and sapphire beads magnify the fire of two incredible Australian opals. There are hints of Impressionism in the subtle touches of the craftmanship that reveal the iridescence and fragility of the wings of the insect, which you can readily believe is about to fly off.

The marine environment is not forgotten: the Nouchali necklace revisits a geometric aquatic flower, where stylized diamond petals, surrounded by mother of pearl, envelop a 10.61-carat rubellite, a vibrant pink central gemstone, at the heart of the flower. Also, the Récif necklace evokes coral or the multi-colored fauna and flora of the atolls, with vivid orange, sparkling green amethysts and iridescent white diamonds.

Finally, the diamonds lend all their power to the Iwana and Water Aspis necklaces, the former picking up the depth and pattern of an iguana’s skin and the latter, the undulations of a sea snake…

The threading technique, ‘En Tremblant’, cutting to the piece, all the know-how of the Cartier craftsmen and women has been summoned up to create adjustable and transformable compositions that vibrate at the slightest movement, and are as beautiful as they are ‘alive’!

Source Rubel & Ménasché

Photos Courtesy of the brands © Bvlgari, Pomellato, Cartier.