The magnificent story of fine jewelry 

Isabelle Hossenlopp

January’s Fashion Week saw certain jewelers present their new fine jewelry collections in an early spring atmosphere.

© De Beers

Although less numerous and tighter than in the summer season, these collections were marvelously inspired. Transformability appears to have become the norm, while head jewelry, like the new minimalist tiara, is a must. The season was marked by the delicacy of diamond jewelry (Chaumet, Dior Joaillerie), the poetry of stones (David Morris), different color associations (Cartier), and the ingenuity of the work and the subtlety of details (Boucheron).

© Dior Joaillerie

Dior Joaillerie opened the ball on the first day with a collection of deeply poetic diamond jewelry. The lightness of the mounts, the perforation, the precise work on the gold in the style of lace, ribbon and tulle, which are Victoire de Castellane’s favorite Couture themes, create an almost relaxed collection, far from the habitual polychromy. The asymmetry and the juxtaposition of the stone sizes are still present, with perfect and less “seismic” proportions. There also very colorful, older pieces of fine jewelry in the showcases, a reminder that Victoire has always been in tune with Couture inspiration.

© Chaumet

More delicacy with the Un Air de Chaumet collection, which captivates us with airy pieces conjuring up the grace and movement of a bird caught in flight. The Plumes d’Or set (feathers of diamond alternating with feathers of brushed matt gold, slivered, curved, twisted) and its pear-shaped diamond set diagonally on the tiara reproduce the breath of air, the volume and the movement. As is often the case with Chaumet, the purity and the line art are at the heart of this short (8 piece) and ultra refined collection, which, thanks to the transformability of all its components, may adorn various parts of one’s silhouette.

© Boucheron

Ice and snow at Boucheron with its The Power of Couture collection, made entirely in diamond and frosted rock crystal. It follows the theme of couture (Frédéric Boucheron’s father was a draper) and military decorations, featuring trimmings, ribbons, medals, fabrics, bows, aiglets, aiguillettes and cords that metamorphosize into fine jewelry creations that can be worn in many ways. An incredible necklace, which required 2,600 hours of work, reproduced in a grosgrain pattern. 435 hand-cut frosted rock crystal tubes adjusted one by one make up this astonishing tie. The edges and the interior of the grosgrain bow are set with diamonds whose brightness is magnified by a 4.05 carat, pear-shaped F VVS2 diamond that can be worn as a ring. 

Louis Vuitton, préparation des saphirs Umba pour le collier SKIN

© Louis Vuitton

© Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitton, the appearance of the pure, geometric forms, the work on the relief and the volumes mark the second chapter of Deep Time. The Skin necklace deploys the light of 300 stones, including around a hundred Umba sapphires from Tanzania, unique for their pink-orange sunset tones. Custom-cut in a multitude of rhombuses, squares and baguettes, the stones create a flamboyant Damier pattern. The highlight of the presentation was naturally the Aster necklace and its 23 fabulous velvet blue Kashmir sapphires (totaling 125 carats). It took 20 years to find and match these extremely rare gems. The necklace was presented in its case, a large customized fine jewelry trunk, before heading off to join its mysterious recipient.

© De Beers

Eight powerful and majestic African animals inspired the eight transformable rings (four cocktail rings and four crown rings) from De Beers, which has always liked to use its creations to pay tribute to the regions from which its diamonds come. Among them, the Lion ring showcases a 5.09 carat trilliant-cut diamond. The warm-white tones of this exceptional stone are illuminated by a mane of tactile beaded gold. This opens up, enabling the diamond to be worn as a solitaire ring.

© David Morris

If De Beers chose warm light from Africa, then David Morris opted for cold light from the north.The English jeweler chose stones in the soft hues of the Northern Lights: blue or colored sapphires (an extraordinary 34.88 carat Padparadscha on the Horizon cocktail ring), pink and cobalt blue spinels, pink diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, green tourmalines, and so on… On the Starbust cuff, the diamond setting sketches out a geometric composition of triangles, rhombuses and sunburst patterns to enhance nearly 59 carats of sapphires and over 52 carats of purest sky-blue Paraiba tourmalines. Magnificent.

© Cartier

For the final chapter of its Voyage Recommencé, Cartier bows out gracefully. The chromatic contrasts held dear by the Maison become very gentle, with soft green, clear blue stone beads, punctuated by little touches of onyx that add character. On the Panthère Confiante necklace, the jeweler’s favorite animal watches over a 26.52 carat cabochon peridot, surrounded by peridot beads and ribbed coral pearls in an ensemble soothed by soft hues, illuminated by the diamond. Conversely, on a necklace symbolizing a game of chess, Art Deco inspiration takes hold, powerful and ultra-geometric, contrasting the whiteness of the diamond with the deep black of the angular onyx. Cartier’s perfectly proportioned necklaces are simultaneously strong, light, airy and supple. The stones are magnificent. Although not always perfect, they possess incredible charm, like these two enormous turquoises on the Yfalos necklace, one in perfect azure blue and the other veined with brown. Creation after creation, Cartier continues to explore its style.

© Graff

A great number of the world’s finest diamonds have passed through the hands of Graff, including the 302.37 carat Lesedi La Rona. The London jeweler has a fearless approach to its stones, now dazzling us with a sumptuous 118 carat natural Ceylon sapphire. 512 diamonds sparkle around this incredibly rare jewel, set on a cuff (a total of 39 carats). The journey into the fantastic world of Graff’s stones continues with a trio of D FL solitaires, including an enormous 36 carat oval diamond. On a pair of earrings, two Fancy Intense Yellow pears, each at over 25 carats, cast their own light. Other treasures, such as an emerald at over 17 carats and a batch of Mozambique rubies that are as beautiful as Burmese ones, complete this collection of extraordinary stones.