The pieces that illuminated fine jewelry in 2023

Isabelle Hossenlopp

Fine jewelry captivates Paris twice a year, during the Fashion Weeks in July and January. They are a wonderful opportunity to showcase rare and complex craftsmanship, exceptional stones as well as the stories of the jewelry companies. Let us look back at some of the beautiful creations that illuminated 2023.


Buccellati’s Mosaico collection is a pure masterpiece from the firm’s goldsmithery and jewelry workshops. The craftsmanship on the different colored golds, the settings, the manual engraving, and the articulation between each of the pieces giving the impression of flowing fabric, make this one of Buccellati’s most remarkable collections.

Princess Talita von Fürstenberg wears jewelry from the Mosaico collection ©Buccellati


The GIRIH necklace is an ode to one of the founding styles of Cartier: the arts of Islam and the splendor of its pure, graphic architecture. It is transcribed in a play of lines, shapes, symmetry, and chromatic harmony between Zambian emeralds and turquoise gems polished by the jeweler. The central pendant can be removed and worn as a brooch.

Girih necklace with platinum, emeralds, turquoise and diamonds ©Cartier


The Grand Tour Collection tells the story of the young noblemen and women who toured Europe from London to Naples. The gem colors evoke the different destinations, climates, landscapes, monuments, and arts. On the Regina Montium necklace, the blue-green hues of two bewitching tourmalines, weighing 16.26 and 27.7 cts, vie with the blues and mauves of the sapphires, aquamarines and tanzanites.

Regina Montium necklace, in white gold, with a 27.7 carat oval green tourmaline, a 16.26 carat cushion green tourmaline, sapphires, tanzanite, aquamarines and diamonds. Convertible pendant ©Van Cleef & Arpels


Piaget is well known for its unusual feather marquetry work, unique on the Place Vendôme. In this spirit, the Alata necklace juxtaposes materials, superimposing gold leaves engraved with the Palace Décor motif, diamond leaves, and white or gold mother-of-pearl for a sparkling optical effect. 

Alata necklace, gold, pear diamonds, mother-of-pearl and diamonds ©Piaget

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton has surely joined the elite inner circle of fine jewelry. The tourmalines and mandarin garnets (totaling around 168 carats) in sumptuous fire and ember colors on the Volcano necklace represent the inferno of magma and the eruptions that bring precious stones to the earth’s surface. Fifteen LV-Monogram Star-cut diamonds form the centerpiece of this necklace. 

Volcano necklace in yellow gold, platinum with cushion-cut tourmalines (89.73 carats) and Mandarin Spessartite garnets (78.73 carats) ©Louis Vuitton


Gabrielle Chanel believed the camelia to be a symbol of delicacy and distinction. On the Tweed Pétale necklace from the “TWEED DE CHANEL” collection, the flower traces its geometric perfection in rose gold embroidery set with powdered or fuchsia sapphires on a textured weave background.

Tweed Pétale necklace in pink gold, white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires, 1 cushion-cut pink sapphire of 5.67 carats and 1 pear-cut diamond of 1.56 carats ©Chanel


Chaumet, nature’s jeweler, loves to let its imagination wander through the woods and meadows of the world. On the Fougère (fern) tiara, diamond-shaped dewdrops land on leaf veins. This piece combines three extraordinarily delicate setting techniques: the illusion setting, which very slightly raises the stones, closed setting and claw setting.

Fougère white gold and diamonds tiara ©Chaumet


Chopard’s enchanting necklace mixes calibrated pear, marquise and brilliant cuts on its diamonds and pink sapphires to produce an effect that is both ethereal and graceful. The gold is Fairmined-certified, a rare label in the world of fine jewelry, given the very limited availability of this type of gold on the market.  

Necklace in Fairmined-certified ethical 18-carat white and pink gold, pink sapphires and diamonds ©Chopard


Bulgari is the colorist jeweler. The Muse of Rome necklace, set with a Colombian sugar loaf emerald of 218.53 carats, is admirable for its weight, density, color and the sheer variety of its hues. This gem can be removed and worn on a necklace of South Sea cultured pearls or a double row of diamonds and emeralds (totaling more than 101 carats). The necklace required 2,300 hours of craftsmanship.

Muse of Rome convertible necklace, platinum, set with a sugar loaf emerald (218.53 cts), emeralds and diamonds ©Bulgari


Both musician and poet, Anna Hu is an astonishing artist. Her inspiration, at the confluence of East and West, magically transforms precious materials. The light petals of her orchids in pink and blue titanium seem to wither before our eyes, closing over dewdrops of briolette-cut diamonds.

‘Myth of Orchid’ titanium and diamond earrings ©Anna Hu


The Metamorphosis collection by De Beers offers twenty convertible pieces. One of the most remarkable of these is the butterfly ring, with its meticulously crafted profiles. Spanning three fingers with its wings, it opens at the center to release another ring, set with a sublime Fancy Vivid Yellow cushion-cut diamond of 7.61 cts.

Summer ring, yellow gold and diamonds, a 7.61 ct Fancy Vivid Yellow cushion cut diamond ©De Beers


Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s artistic director, knows how to create totally offbeat collections. Her cheeky and futuristic fine jewelry is a fusion of precious, synthetic, and industrial materials. In this case, an impressive XXL diamond and HyCeram (hybrid of ceramic and polymer) necklace, jewelry for a modern-day knight.  

Just An Illusion necklace, white gold, titanium, HyCeram, diamonds, mandarin garnets and crystal rock ©Boucheron


In a dazzling collection, Messika evokes the festive and joyful disco era. On the Glitter Fever necklace, the jeweler returns to the snow setting of traditional jewelry to illuminate 15 cushion-cut yellow diamonds weighing from 2 to 15 carats (more than 87 cts in total). 

Glitter Fever necklace, white gold, 15 yellow diamonds, white diamonds ©Messika


Every year, Tiffany gives free rein to its jewelry creativity in the Blue Book, a very exclusive collection. In 2023, it turned to the sea for inspiration, with variations on the sea anemone as one of its themes. The diamonds magnify the colored stones, a historic design of the American jewelry firm.

Blue Book earrings in white gold, elba tourmalines and diamonds ©Tiffany


The Swiss company Bucherer made its debut in fine jewelry in September 2023, with the Inner Fire collection and its 8 exclusive pieces showcasing the light of diamonds. The centerpiece of the collection is a tapered necklace, a stunning upwelling of light. Two rows of diamonds in a mix of brilliant and baguette cuts hold a 7.52 carat pear-cut diamond that appears to hover in mid-air.  

Inner Fire white gold and diamonds necklace, a 7.52 carat pear-shaped diamond ©Bucherer