Using an approach that combines scientific rigor and emotion, Cartier regularly exhibits the treasures of its heritage collection around the world, offering the opportunity to take a spellbinding plunge into the heart of its history and style. Simply named Cartier, a new exhibition was unveiled on April 12 at London’s V & A Museum, enhanced by new acquisitions and previously unseen pieces.
Longevity founded on years of creativity
The objects on display at the V&A are drawn from Cartier’s own holdings, as well as from other private collections and major clients including the British Royal Family, and from British and international museums. Highlights include the Williamson brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, set with a fabulous 23.6-carat pink diamond; a scroll tiara worn on the day of Elizabeth II’s coronation; Grace Kelly’s engagement ring with its impressive 10-carat diamond; and actress María Félix’s exceptional necklace featuring two crocodile heads set with over 2,000 stones.
Other highlights include a necklace of rare and almost moving beauty featuring 27 imperial jade beads, once belonging to Barbara Hutton (acquired at auction in 2014 for $24.44 million), and the ceremonial necklace of the Maharajah of Patiala, an incredible order of almost 1,000 carats of diamonds with a colorful past. Archival documents accompany visitors throughout the exhibition, giving them a sense of time and deciphering the way in which the Parisian jeweler’s styles have evolved over the years, consistently nourished by graphic rigor, purity and elegance.
The Cartier Collection has assembled numerous pieces from this rich heritage, expressing the creative power of the Maison through the ages. It was first put together in the 1970s, with a methodical search for the most significant pieces (museums, collectors, auctions, etc. – the jeweler never approached families directly). Secretly tucked away in Geneva, the Collection now comprises over 3,500 pieces, the oldest dating back to the 1860s. Each new acquisition is rigorously authenticated, documented by the Maison’s experts and occasionally restored in-house. To enter this highly exclusive club, whether it’s an object, a watch or an item of jewelry, the piece must be emblematic of a style or a prestigious affiliation likely to give it a special aura.
A heritage of art, design and craftsmanship
It took several years to build the exhibition. Bringing together more than 350 pieces and never-before-seen archives, this extraordinary event charts the evolution of the Maison’s heritage of art, design and craftsmanship since the early 20th century. Cartier chose this period because it marks a turning point in its history. It was at this time that the founder’s three grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, decided to make their business global by establishing branches in Paris, London and New York. This is how Cartier became the ‘supplier’ to many different European royal courts. England had a prominent position among them, which the V&A exhibition amply demonstrates. Cartier enjoyed a privileged status that nurtured and enriched its creativity and image over the years. The jeweler was also introduced to the Maharajahs – for whom it created sumptuous pieces – as well as to the court of Tsar Nicholas II, working closely with the Romanovs. This presence in the inner circle of kings and princes from every continent allowed Cartier to draw inspiration from an ever-wider range of sources, feeding off the culture of its customers, to whom it offered a new and enlightening aesthetic interpretation of their own heritage in return. Although we have no record of Cartier commissioning pieces for the Chinese or Japanese imperial courts, the ancient and extremely rich art and culture of these countries influenced the entire Art Deco period in Europe. Cartier created the most beautiful expressions of this ‘Asia of dreams’, which was very much in vogue at the time.
Recently, at the Cartier and Islamic Art. At the Source of Modernity exhibition held at the MAD in Paris in 2021 – an event that attracted 200,000 visitors – the Maison presented a new example of its far-flung inspirations. Through ancient objects, jewelry and documents, it showed how forms, colors and symbolism from Islamic art had helped shape its creations.
The Tutti Frutti style is another major Cartier signature. It has its roots in Indian glyptics, whose jewelry comprises gemstones engraved in the shape of flowers or leaves. The V&A has a particularly refined example on display – the bandeau commissioned in 1928 by Edwina Mountbatten. To this day, no high jewelry collection sees the light of day without including at least one Tutti Frutti set, revealing the extraordinary colors of the stones and the meticulous cutting and assembly work involved, which adds up to hundreds of hours in the workshop.
On the trail of the panther
To quote Jean-Jacques Cartier, you should “never copy, always create… inspiration can and must come from everywhere, except from jewelry that already exists”. Inspiration should never come from your competitors’ innovations, but from observing the world, and nature in particular. Louis Cartier owned an extensive library of cultural, architectural, botanical and animal inspirations, which his designers regularly consulted for new creative sources. Among the books, Mathurin Méheut’s remarkable ‘Etudes d’animaux’ (currently on display in the Dessins de Bijoux exhibition at the Petit Palais in Paris until July 20, 2025) inspired Charles Jacqueau’s most beautiful panther drawings, which were to make a major contribution to the Maison’s style.
The feline is an important guiding theme in the exhibition at the V&A. Appearing for the first time in a drawing commissioned by the jeweler and later adapted by Jeanne Toussaint, the panther has become an icon. Featuring in every high jewelry collection, whether visible or – more recently – concealed in a stonework, it remains a key inspiration for the Parisian Maison. A symbol of beauty, strength and suppleness, its dominant, wild character is always associated with a graceful attitude.
Referring to the diamond and sapphire panther brooch designed for the Duchess of Windsor, Cartier Collection Director Pascale Lepeu made a lovely comparison: “It’s our Mona Lisa”.This alludes to the feline’s slightly mysterious side, to its attitude – emblematic of a sensual relationship with gemstones that is highly typical of Cartier – and of course, to the size and beauty of the 152.35-carat cabochon sapphire on which the animal is perched. Deployed in numerous collections and redesigned many times, the iconic panther will be back in the spotlight in summer 2025 in a dedicated collection.
The exhibition is divided into 3 sections, exploring the creativity and style, technical ingenuity, expertise and heritage of an image that has spanned decades while adapting to remain modern without ever changing. It also highlights the history of Cartier London and concludes with a spectacular presentation of tiaras, some of which have never before been shown to the public.
Maison Cartier has already staged 43 international exhibitions.
The Collection has been housed by the world’s greatest museums, including:
− The Petit Palais in Paris (1989)
− The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (1997)
− The British Museum in London (1998)
− The Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico (1999)
− The Moscow Kremlin Museums (2007)
− The Palace Museum in Beijing’s Forbidden City (2009 and 2019)
− The Grand Palais in Paris (2013-14)
− The National Gallery of Australia in Canberra (2018)
− The National Art Center in Tokyo (2019)
− The Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris (2021)
− The Museo Jumex in Mexico City (2023)
− The Hong Kong Palace Museum (2023)
− The V&A in London (2025)
Cartier V&A South Kensington
The Sainsbury Gallery
April 12, 2025 – November 16, 2025
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Images : Cartier
Home page photo: Tiara, Cartier London, 1937. Aquamarine, diamonds and platinum. Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier © Cartier
Source : Isabelle Hossenlopp
