Hiver Impérial, Tsarist Russia through the eyes of Boucheron

| September 28th, 2017

In July, during the Parisian haute couture collections season, the Maison Boucheron unveiled its new high jewelry collection. After its “Bleu de Jodhpur” in 2016, which was created under the patronage of the Maharajah with the audacious use of Makrana marble, this year, the flamboyant Russia of the Tsars is the source of inspiration.

Admittedly, the collection had been mentioned in the article by Ashley Davis—Price upon request: Paris high jewelry, part II—that we published on 27 July 2017. But it seemed essential  for Rubel & Ménasché to dedicate an entire article to it.

Once again this year, the Parisian high jewelry house has had the good taste to take us on a journey: our destination this time being the snow-covered steppes and other vast white landscapes of Russia. It intends to pay “tribute to the links that have connected the Maison Boucheron and the dynasty of the Tsars since 1897.” The house was the “first French jeweler to open a shop in Moscow in 1897.”

In this Hiver Impérial (Imperial Winter), icy whites and blues are de rigueur, through white gold, diamonds, pearls, rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, aquamarine or tanzanite. It is not hard to imagine the snow, with its flakes and crystals, covering the great northern plains and the boreal forests…

Three of Boucheron’s favorite themes are thus illustrated. Nature, in the “Lumière de nuit“ chapter that plunges us beneath the cold polar light; couture, with the “Femmes boréales“ chapter, which evokes the jewelry sets of imperial figures; and finally, architecture, (cast your mind back again to the blue of the Brahman houses of Jodhpur) with the “L’anneau d’or“ chapter, which is reminiscent of Ottoman architecture and the roofs and domes of Russia.

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The Baïkal necklace set, in the “Femmes boréales“ chapter, which is emblematic of the collection, is quite exceptional: over twenty rows of cultured pearl make up this majestic “collar” which hugs the neck and neckline, so impressive, set with a Santa Maria oval aquamarine (78.33 ct) and moonstones, and paved with diamonds and aquamarines…

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In the “Lumière de nuit“ chapter (where we come across Husky dogs, a fox, an owl, a wolf and a polar bear!), the Flocon impérial necklace set comes in the multi-wear tradition (cushion diamond, 5.20 ct, rock crystal and diamond paving, on white gold). As for the Boule de neige ring, it astonishes with its rock crystal dome filled with diamonds.

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Finally, the Marqueterie* bracelet and ring sets, whose geometric forms are stamped with modernity, combine blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, diamonds and white gold.

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* Taken from the name of the craft technique of veneering and inlaying elements into a different material, such as wood, so as to create decor, furniture, pieces or works of art.

(It is worth noting that you can see certain pieces of the collection worn by the stars at the most recent Cannes Film Festival here.)

Photo © Courtesy of Boucheron.

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